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Margrain Vineyard Gewurtraminer 2019

We always aim to pick Gewurz when it is ripe - super ripe! That is when the flavours come tumbling forth giving the wine that je ne sais quoi that no other grape variety can come near. Inevitably, that leads to high sugars at harvest and in order to keep the alcohol to reasonable levels and also to offset the ever-present stern phenolics, we like to retain a certain amount of residual sugar in the finished wine. The 2018 was like an untethered spacewalk, carrying an almost overpowering 38g/L RS, so we decided to reign it in this year and retain a mere 16g/l, which in fact makes it the driest Gewurztraminer we have ever produced. The result is pure elegance.

In the glass the wine shines a beautiful gold, with flashes of myrrh and frankincense. The nose delivers a rush of candy crush with masses of lavender, marzipan and pungent rosewater. Ripe peach kernel pirouettes with honeysuckle and lush rock melon, then melts like brown sugar into hot butter producing enticing aromas of chewy brandysnap and giving an air of overachievement and showiness but not to the point of obscenity. Hints of orange zest, sweet cherry tomatoes and struck-match give a certain complexity.

The palate provides true bliss! On the one hand taut, subtle and understated, it is on the other bold, brassy and slightly promiscuous. Rifts of green melon, sliced cucumber, yellow plums and blood orange combine to give a poignant air, while chocolate covered hokey pokey, dried cranberry and pistachio nut impart a Zen-like harmony.  A carborundum grit to the texture feels like the kiss from a rose and the wine then sparks as the gentle acidity raises its arms in the finish and departs with a cleansing freshness. Enjoy over summer with freshly steamed mussel marinara.