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Margrain Vineyard 'Home Block' Pinot Noir 2017

We’ve shared some history, this wine and I and over 25 vintages we have gotten to know each other well. As winemakers, we love the warmer years, they are easy. The Pinots are upfront and friendly and they seem to catch your eye from across the room before bounding over and licking your face like an exuberant Labrador puppy. 2017 however, was not one of these years, with cool conditions dominating the summer and autumn. We had to work harder on picking decisions, fruit handling and the barrel selection process to find parcels worthy of Home Block status. The rewards were there and though only 169 cases were produced, this wine shows a tautness and focus which are often lacking in the hotter seasons.

With the powerful grip of a 3 month old baby and the sinewy frame of a jockey, this wine is not to be trifled with. There is a breadth and presence across the palate which puffs out both cheeks while the slippery tannins and upstanding acidity make the hairs on your tongue bristle. Countering this are intense dark plum flavours, dried black current and a hint of rhubarb. A bewitching sweetness sweeps in and gives the cocoon like roundness of a familiar armchair. Beneath this, the finely honed structure and carborundum-like texture lend a pleasing prickle to the finish.