When people ask them, as they frequently do, why two city dwellers should suddenly buy a sixteen acre bare paddock in Dry River Road, Martinborough, dismiss the sheep and plant 10,000 vines by spade, the answer is palpable. They say. "We’d simply lost our marbles."

What was supposed to be a gentle descent into early retirement, turned into a thriving 24/7 bustle of vine-tending, winemaking, marketing and restaurateuring; each operation undertaken in the hallowed, self-flagellating Martinborough tradition – by manual labour. Be it leaf-plucking or bunch thinning by hand in the vineyard to ensure umblemished, perfectly ripe fruit, the Coney aim is to pay keen attention to detail.

Coney Wines 'Rallentando' Riesling 2012
Coney Wines 'Rallentando' Riesling 2012 $22.50
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